It’s a couple of weeks since I posted my Mia jeans on Instagram, but I think they deserve a fuller explanation. So here it is.
I bought the stretch denim in November, from Fabricland in Reading, before we moved back to the northeast. I always intended it to be for the Mia jeans, because my first version of this pattern is lightweight needlecord, without adequate stretch, so although they are comfortable enough, they don’t make the most of the pattern, and they pull down at the back waist when sitting.
The denim is a one-way stretch, but that is absolutely fine. The gap in my wardrobe was for another pair of skinny, jegging type jeans, and this project just fit the bill nicely.
Before starting, I did some research into the fitting of trousers, because the two pairs I made last year (one pair is the Port trousers from Pauline Alice), had that same problem – pulling down the back waist and not enough bend at the knee when sitting.
My question about how to address these issues was put out on IG, and the community rallied round! I was seeeew grateful! Lots of people replied with helpful suggestions.
I read people’s comments, and watched video clips, and then had a good measuring session. For videos about fitting adjustments I can recommend visiting “Sure Fit Designs”, where you can find ways to address all sorts of issues, very well explained! After all that I made my decisions, which were:
- Add extra to the back crotch (under the bum 🤣)
- Add width to the front thigh
Having made this pattern before, I also knew that I needed to ensure that
- The fly extension and facing were long enough
- The zip was adjusted to the right length
- The leg length was long enough
So these pieces were all cut much longer, in the knowledge that they could all be adjusted if necessary.
Off I went.
I chose red cotton for the topstitching and had some fun with the pockets. Who doesn’t love jeans with an individual twist??
I took out a couple of teeth from the zip, and boy did I follow the instructions and details for the fly! What a result! All going brilliantly so far.
I toyed with the idea of hacking in some front pockets, but after dithering around to no avail, I gave up on that this time. I may do it next time.
Then came the inside seams, and then…. dum dum duuuum! (Cue scary music) ……. the outside seams. Whooaa! Boy were these massive! A lot was taken in. I did not need the extra width on the thigh at all, in fact I took them in three times, before I was happy.
The waistband is a straight one because these are high waisted, so that was straightforward enough, and I added some prettiness on the inside by binding the inside edge, and then I actually put in a jeans button.
A lesson I learned about that is that the hole for the button should be as small as possible. I made it too large and had to hand stitch it closed around the button to stop the back from slipping off.. I also ruined one button by not hammering on a flat surface. DOH!
It turned out that, because I followed the instructions more carefully, I didn’t need the extra length on the fly pieces, but boy did I need the extra leg length! I do like my jeans long.
So I am happy with my jeans. They did not take as long to make as I thought they would, and so I was able to wear them during my weekend trip to Wiltshire. 😁
But….. (there’s always a “but”, isn’t there?) , having extended the back crotch, I should have reduced the front. There is a definite bagginess at the top of the leg, and next time I will make an adjustment in that area.
Still……. I made jeans! Yay! And without an overlocker! It is possible to make jeans using a basic machine. 😁😁
I am tempted to have a go at a different version with front pockets and a back yoke. There’s the Ginger, Morgan or Dawn. What do you think?